The simple sophistication of sole meunière

The simple sophistication of sole meunière

Picture the scene. The year is 2004. The setting, a British field or maybe a beach. There is a small open fire burning with a single cast-iron pan perched on it. A male TV chef – dressed in a striped shirt, open at the neck, chinos, possibly red, leather shoes – is standing over it, reverently holding a fish. “This is a beautiful piece of fish,” he says, “and we’re not going to do anything fancy here. It doesn’t need it! We’re going to keep it s…