Spanish reds worth trying from Altos in Rioja’s high country

Spanish reds worth trying from Altos in Rioja’s high country

After more than 40 years of winemaking around the globe, you can safely say Jean-Marc Sauboua has skin in the game – in this case, literally so. The label on two of his handcrafted Altos reds from the northern reaches of Spain’s Rioja region are adorned with the word “pigeage”, which in French means “plunging”. That’s the viticultural technique of periodically pushing the thick layer of grape skins on top of the fermentation tank back into the j…