Italy's low-key ski destination for affordable stays and uncrowded slopes

Italy's low-key ski destination for affordable stays and uncrowded slopes

Having whizzed up on a snowmobile, with the Milky Way unfurled above me, it was time to enjoy several helpings of polenta concia – a creamy take on the dish with melted cheese and butter – at Baita Gimont, a B&B and restaurant high up on the slopes. At night, its distant glow on the knobbly shoulders of the Alps guided me like the North Star. Baita Gimont is one of more than 30 refuges in the Via Lattea, or Milky Way, ski area, which is among Eu…