Heart of the Arctic

Heart of the Arctic

Squinting in the chilling Arctic wind, I climb out of a small inflatable Zodiac and step onto the wet sand of Disco Island off the west coast of Greenland in Baffin Bay. I trudge up the hill where the rest of my group is already listening to our guide about the dos and don’ts of high-Arctic explorations, which can be summed up as “if you don’t want to be eaten by a polar bear, stay within the designated perimeter.” Everyone agrees that it’s reas…