Critics’ choice: New takes on French cuisine

Critics’ choice: New takes on French cuisine

Zimmi’s - New York City While Manhattan always has “plenty of Paris,” said Helen Rosner in The New Yorker, bistros that channel Provence are harder to come by. Enter Zimmi’s, which brings the air of the south of France to the West Village. In the small storefront space, “the music is low and happy, the brown gingham tables disarmingly chic.” In the kitchen, chef Maxime Pradié draws on a childhood spent cooking with his grandmother to attain sump…