US EditionA Century of Surfing in English California
Summary by El Pais
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The belief that on the mainland everything is more stable pursues freshwater sailors. But who learns to wait for the wave, ride it and ride it reaches something that all surfers want: the ability to commune with themselves and to dialogue with the water on a board. Something similar was what happened to Sam Bleakley (1978, Newmill, Cornwall) when his father, Alan Fuz Bleakley (the pioneer of English surfing in the sixties and founder of Surf Ins…
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