US EditionThomas Keller Asked Me to Leave The French Laundry. It Turned Into My Most Extraordinary Night as a Critic.
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Thomas Keller Asked Me to Leave The French Laundry. It Turned Into My Most Extraordinary Night as a Critic.
On at least two occasions, Thomas Keller, the exhaustively acclaimed chef of the French Laundry and Per Se, has served mushroom soup to restaurant critics via a glass bong—an allusion to a negative review published nearly ten years ago. MacKenzie Chung Fegan, restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, encounters a decidedly less playful Keller during a recent visit to the French Laundry, where she is separated from her table, made to wai…
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