In February 2023, the first full day of my Middle East Policy delegation trip to Saudi Arabia did not begin in Riyadh’s gleaming financial district, nor in Jeddah’s historic Al-Balad quarter. It began at the Mohammed bin Nayef Center for Counselling and Care, a rehabilitation facility for jihadists named after a man the CIA loved, Al Jazeera defended, and Mohammed bin Salman jailed.The centre disarmed me. Far from the grim, sterile space I had i…