Review: ‘Nobu’ strains to showcase a humble man at the center of a sexy global brand

Review: ‘Nobu’ strains to showcase a humble man at the center of a sexy global brand

By Joshua Rothkopf, Los Angeles Times It takes a little over an hour for “Nobu” to marinate long enough to approach a point of complexity, not exactly bitter but no longer cloyingly sweet. Nobu Matsuhisa, the celebrated sushi master, is running quality-control checks in one of his restaurants. A poor chef is sweating the test so badly, he won’t need soy sauce soon enough. His dish keeps being sent back: Chop the chives finer. Why is this pile of…