Priced at Thousands of Dollars per Kilogram, Baby Eels Have Set Off a Global Frenzy

Priced at Thousands of Dollars per Kilogram, Baby Eels Have Set Off a Global Frenzy

AROUND 9 P.M. ON April 10, 2024, James Nevin parked his truck next to the Shubenacadie Canal in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, scanning the banks for a good spot to fish. There were others already there, so he decided against it; the year before, he had been threatened by other fishers holding guns. For years, Nevin had earned his living, in part, fishing elvers—baby eels—in the rivers, streams, and canals of Nova Scotia. That spring, Fisheries and Oce…