Slightly sweet, plush and tender, this yeast-risen bread is often dipped and dragged through saucy dishes, used as a vessel to deliver food to the mouth. In Lagos, Nigeria, it is known as ágẹ̀gẹ bread, named for the large industrial bakery that relocated to the city of Ágẹ̀gẹ in the 1960s to sell hot loaves to eager commuters. Here, the buns provide a smaller, portable version of the loaf. The dense yet cloudlike bread is dipped in milk tea, san…