Like most seaside towns in the off-season, Saundersfoot has a touch of the melancholy about it. Gone is the phalanx of families and sunworshipers who overrun its long sandy beach each summer, replaced by a smattering of wrapped-up dog walkers and a lone metal detectorist. Even the seagulls seem subdued, circling forlornly above the tide. This handsome village, nestled on the Pembrokeshire coast of West Wales, isn’t dead, exactly, more in a state