“What Are We Doing? Why Are We Cooking Like This?”: the Chef Who Gave up His Michelin Star to Start From Scratch

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“I’m not going to reopen the restaurant,” chef Bas van Kranen told the general manager of L’Europe, an imposing five-star hotel on the edge of a beautiful canal in central Amsterdam. “The restrictions on covid’s pandemic had just ended and Van Kranen was referring to the restaurant Bord’Eau, with a Michelin star; so the face of the head of the hotel that housed him must have been a poem. “It wasn’t funny to him; he thought I was going crazy. It …