Throttle therapy: two wheels, one town, endless details

Throttle therapy: two wheels, one town, endless details

I arrived in Tonalá, Jalisco, with a backpack and the kind of expectations that come from guidebooks and well-meaning friends who promised a town brimming with treasures. They were right, but not in the way I had imagined. I’d pictured myself bargaining over ceramics, debating one vase against another, maybe leaving with a fragile object wrapped carefully in newspaper. Instead, my hands stayed empty, and my heart was full in ways I hadn’t antici…