Goa has a reputation for reinvention. Old Portuguese houses turned into boutique hotels. Paddy fields sold off and paved over. Hillsides terraced and tamed. For decades, the promise of tourism revenue has redrawn the state’s geography in concrete and tile. But 15 minutes from the beach crowds of Candolim, tucked behind a road that most visitors would never think to turn to, something unusual has happened, or rather, something precious has been a…
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