Enter any French cheese shop, especially in spring, and you’ll notice that the chèvre section is particularly robust. Producers of fresh goat cheeses make them all over France and in all shapes and sizes, from the truncated pyramid of Valençay to the suggestive Sein de Nounou (nanny’s breast), from the imposing 1-kilogram Gabarre to teeny Pélardons, Picodons, and Crottins de Chavignol, all of which would easily fit in your pocket. But of all of …
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