Riding the Portuguese wave

Riding the Portuguese wave

When I first surfed the Portuguese coast from Porto to Peniche in 1973, there was no surf culture to speak of, or if there had been, it had been exported to Africa to fight for the country’s last remaining colonial possessions. In the port village of Peniche, in particular, where my travel buddy, Jamo and I spent a month or more, free-camping in a pup tent next to the rat-infested rock wall that protected the harbour, living on plastic bags full…