Beppu, Japan’s famous onsen town, offers aromas as much as it does sights. Steam rises from vents and gutters, mineral-rich hot spring water feeds thousands of baths, and the unmistakable sulfurous aroma of an onsen town drifts through parts of the city. It’s one of Japan’s best-known hot spring destinations, drawing visitors from Japan and abroad to soak in its waters and explore its famous “hells.” But there’s one smell a small restaurant in B…
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