Nicolas De Heeckeren: “I Went Into a Trance and Let Myself Be Carried Away by the Purest Feeling of Gratitude”
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The talented Chilean goofy footer saw in this left-wing point that the surfer who was taking the good one fell forward and therefore left the wave for him. The cool thing about these waves is that the route is so long that it gives to recompose a whole wave of zero even being a little bit more advanced in the line up. The video is the most reliable proof. On his Instagram Nicolás said: “A nice wave that gave me the sea.” It could also be “a nice…
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