Motions in the oceans: the science of surfing
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Motions in the oceans: the science of surfing
We are taking a look back at stories from Cosmos Magazine in print. In March 2024, coastal scientist Rob Brander tackled the physics of everything from wave formation to staying on a board to spending time in the green room. On October 29, 2020, German surfer Sebastian Steudtner rode a 26.2 metre-high wave (86 foot) at Nazaré, Portugal. It’s considered to be the biggest wave ever surfed. Aside from the obvious questions of Why would you surf a s…
·Washington, United States
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