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In the world of aisle ethics, who owns the taste of the Global South?
Standing in my neighbourhood Whole Foods in Chicago, there’s a particular kind of vertigo that comes from holding a tin of bougie rooibos. The packaging is admittedly beautiful: burnt sienna and terracotta, a shrub of some sort. I assume it to be the Aspalathus linearis, grown wild for millennia in the Cederberg, an ancient sandstone wilderness north of Cape Town. The price tag reads nearly $15 (approximately R240). For 36 bags. I grew up drin…
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In the world of aisle ethics, who owns the taste of the Global South?
Standing in my neighbourhood Whole Foods in Chicago, there’s a particular kind of vertigo that comes from holding a tin of bougie rooibos. The packaging is admittedly beautiful: burnt sienna and terracotta, a shrub of some sort. I assume it to be the Aspalathus linearis, grown wild for millennia in the Cederberg, an ancient sandstone wilderness north of Cape Town. The price tag reads nearly $15 (approximately R240). For 36 bags. I grew up drin…
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