In the loft of St Maelrhys, I listened to Welsh poet RS Thomas reading “The Moon in Lleyn”. He wrote it in 1974, when he was vicar of this lonely church above Porth Ysgo’s cliffs, and his haunting voice struggled from a cranky CD player that seemed almost as old. I peered through the window, along the uplifting green tip of the Llyn Peninsula, the bulge of Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) hazy beyond. Then I returned to St Maelrhys’s simple nave, sta…