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Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander designers break free from house codes
Designers leaned on fluid silhouettes, upcycled fur and intergenerational appeal as Milan’s Spring/Summer 2027 shows highlighted refreshed brand identities.
In Milan, creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander, and Meryll Rogge at Marni are loosening traditional house codes, reshaping the brands' legacies through inventive tailoring and intergenerational designs.
Chiuri freed the body for her second Fendi show on Sept 23, utilizing glass walls to create a hall of mirrors and aiming to recreate the freedom of the nightclub dance floor.
During his Sept 23 show, Simone Bellotti softened the Jil Sander minimalist uniform, favoring elongated silhouettes and inventive tailoring. "It is very beautiful to see the result of this manipulation, made by hands," Bellotti said.
At the Marni preview on Thursday, Meryll Rogge embraced intergenerational acceptance, with the brand's new bag attracting both a 17-year-old girl and an 80-year-old woman as first customers.
As fashion's game of musical chairs slows down, Milan's newest creative directors are loosening up the codes at some of Italy's most storied brands, modernizing legacy fashion houses while maintaining their recognizable heritage.
At the fashion shows in Milan, creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri, Simone Bellotti and Meryll Rogge showed how in the new seasons Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander are moving away from established rules.