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Edna Lewis built the future of American dining on Black country tradition
The book helped turn seasonal, local cooking into a national standard and still guides chefs and home cooks, supporters say.
Fifty years after Edna Lewis shared her culinary vision in "The Taste of Country Cooking," the cookbook's new anniversary edition highlights how her ideas continue to define how the nation eats today.
Lewis developed her approach in Freetown, Virginia, a farming community established by former slaves, where her memories of food were tied to the seasonal changes of the year.
In 1976, the godfather of American gastronomy, James Beard, praised Lewis's work for its rich descriptions of communal living, while Alice Waters, of Chez Panisse, credited Lewis with suggesting "another way of being" in harmony with the seasons.
Author and journalist Toni Tipton-Martin noted the book lays down a marker for what American food is, while chef and co-founder of Grey Spaces, Mashama Bailey, credits Lewis's influence on her menu at The Grey in Savannah, Georgia.
Scott Peacock recalled Lewis encouraging him to "learn about your own cuisine before you go off studying someone else's," and her techniques, including pan-frying with lard, remain aspirational for chefs and home cooks.