Wayne Burg has had his share of adventures in his nine decades on the planet. He chased humpback whales in the Sea of Cortez, also known as the Gulf of California, the narrow sea between the Mexican mainland and Baja California, a body of water Jacques Cousteau dubbed “the aquarium of the world.” He and a friend paddled into a pod of humpbacks, but they couldn’t see them. The water, for some reason, was black, and you couldn’t see two inches b…