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What Makes a Wave Break Right Before It Reaches the Beach?
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1 Articles
From the shore it seems that a wave is a mass of water that travels from the deep sea to crashing into the beach. Actually, what moves mainly is energy. The particles of water make approximately circular movements and end near the place where they started, as the disturbance advances through the ocean. Everything changes when that energy reaches a shallow area. There begins the explanation of why the waves break: the movement of the water begins…
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