Western Greenland Is More Accessible Than Ever—Here’s the Best Way to Visit It

Western Greenland Is More Accessible Than Ever—Here’s the Best Way to Visit It

Inuit guides invite travelers to experience the local traditions of this Arctic oasis.An iceberg in Ilulissat, Greenland.Credit: Christopher Churchill/Travel + LeisureZipping beneath skyscraper-high icebergs on a small skiff boat, the January wind whipping my face, I knew I was getting the full multisensory experience of Greenland. “This is my freedom,” Jan Cortsen, owner of Ilulissat Local Guide, told me.Cortsen grew up in the ice-covered 5,000…