Toby Carvery: Britain on a plate

Toby Carvery: Britain on a plate

The most memorable restaurants tend to involve a bit of temporal stasis. The River Café is bathed in the eternal, early afternoon sunshine of a long Thursday lunch in the first flush of Tony Blair’s Labour. Carbone, recently deposited in the base of the Chancery Rosewood hotel in Grosvenor Square, is a perpetual Manhattan midnight. TGI Fridays literally built its quitting-time vibe into its name. And then there is Toby Carvery, the 41-year-old p…