As the Mekong spreads across the horizon, the towers of Phnom Penh signal AmaDara’s approach to the Cambodian capital. I first came here 25 years ago and have been drawn back repeatedly by the city’s peculiar mixture of tragedy, faded glamour and restless reinvention. Once celebrated as the “Pearl of Asia”, Phnom Penh still reveals fragments of its former self in the Royal Palace, Central Post Office, Raffles Hotel Le Royal and scattered French …
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