FORTALEZA, Brazil — The putrid smell from a nearby sanitation plant swept across the waves and seemed to stick to the water. Trash floated past my surfboard with disturbing frequency. This northeastern city’s most renowned waves are framed by its most notorious favela: Pirambu. “Bodies thrown into the water upwind wash ashore here—the ocean rejects them,” my surf instructor muttered. On shore, multi-million-dollar condominiums reflecting the cit…
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