Russia on the Other Side of the River. A City that Doesn't Belong in Estonia.

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The river is much narrower than the Vistula, and in places shallow enough to reveal its rocky bottom. On the bank, a bored fisherman stares at his float. There's practically no one else. It's quiet, peaceful, almost sleepy. The tricolor flag: white, blue, and red, reflects in the water. It flutters atop a medieval Russian fortress. Right next to it is the Friendship Bridge. It's here, not on the empty streets of the town, that life unfolds. Some…