The former Dorian space is coming alive again, and after a significant remodel, it reopened over the weekend as Morella, and Italian restaurant with Argentinian influences.San Francisco is, of course, awash in great Italian food, to the point that the New York Times' Mark Bittman once declared SF the best city for regional Italian cuisine outside of Italy. But while have restaurants devoted to specific regions in Italy — Perbacco (Piedmont), La …