Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Hankering for a good Sunday lunch? Try Wicklow's Chester Beatty Inn or Fagan’s in Dublin 9

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Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Hankering for a good Sunday lunch? Try Wicklow's Chester Beatty Inn or Fagan’s in Dublin 9

I received an email from a publican recently which, sans all the usual puffery, rather tickled my fancy. Telling me that they were a small family business with a bar, lounge, restaurant, and 12 bedrooms, he said: “We are nothing fancy but are a genuine Irish pub serving good-quality food, have great service, best staff and love what we do.” But here’s the bit that both made me laugh out loud on the one hand, and astounded me on the other in a wo…