SCORESBY SOUND, Greenland — There's no feeling more exhilarating than waking up inside the imminent path of a total solar eclipse to see a clear blue sky. It was Wednesday, Aug. 12, and after over two years of planning, I was in the farthest reaches of eastern Greenland's beautiful Scoresby Sound (or Scoresbysund) fjord system aboard the Aurora Expeditions cruise ship the Sylvia Earle. We were creeping toward Ukattip Kungersiva, also known as …