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‘Appetizing’ Stores Are the Quieter, Less Famous Sibling of the Jewish Deli – WTOP News

While many specialty shops disappeared, younger operators are opening new outlets and reviving classic fish, schmear and holiday spreads.

  • A wave of new appetizing stores is opening across the country, run by a younger generation, reversing decades of decline from the 1930s-1950s peak when hundreds of shops operated in New York City.
  • Traditionally, an appetizing store was distinct from a deli, which served meat; these shops emerged from Jewish kosher laws forbidding meat and dairy mixing, offering smoked fish and cream cheese instead.
  • Smoked salmon, particularly Nova cold-smoked under 90 degrees, remains the centerpiece, while customers build their plates with schmear—whipped cream cheese—sable, and whitefish.
  • Business on Yom Kippur and Rosh Hashana has increased 12 to 15 times over the past 40 years, says Gary Greengrass, the third-generation owner of Barney Greengrass on Manhattan's Upper West Side, as families rely on prepared meals to break the fast.
  • Modern operators like Mish Delicatessen in Los Angeles, Steingold's Deli in Chicago, and Biederman's Specialty Foods in Philadelphia are capturing a new generation by blending traditional and contemporary appetizing elements.
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'Appetizing' stores are the quieter, less famous sibling of the Jewish deli

In traditional Jewish American food culture, there was the deli and also its less famous sibling, the appetizing store. You went to the deli for meats, like a pastrami sandwich. The appetizing store had lox and cream cheese. The difference…

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The Independent broke the news in London, United Kingdom on Wednesday, September 16, 2026.
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