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Jim Whittaker, First American to Climb Everest, Dies at 97

His Everest ascent helped ignite U.S. interest in mountaineering and paved the way for a career leading REI and Rainier Mountaineering Inc.

  • Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, at age 97.
  • On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and Sherpa Nawang Gombu became the first to reach the Everest summit, a historic climb that ignited widespread American interest in mountaineering.
  • Beyond climbing, Whittaker served as the first full-time employee and later CEO of Recreational Equipment Inc. and co-founded Rainier Mountaineering Inc. with his twin, Lou Whittaker.
  • Leading 10 handicapped climbers up 14,410-foot Mount Rainier in 1981, Whittaker demonstrated his commitment to mentorship alongside his close friendship with Senator Robert Kennedy, whom he climbed Mount Kennedy with.
  • Leaving a legacy far beyond his record-breaking exploits, Whittaker once noted in 1987, 'The mountains are fair, but they really don't care,' reflecting on mountaineering's deeper meaning.
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Cascadia Daily broke the news in on Wednesday, April 8, 2026.
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